After a long, and stressful, drive from Cape Cod to Jersey City, we arrived at Liberty Harbor RV Park, directly across the Hudson from Lower Manhattan. We knew this RV “park” was only a parking lot, but were still surprised just how tightly packed we were. Like sardines was an understatement. We had less than Ten inches to spare between the power post on one side and our neighbors on the other. Luckily,
A Tight Fit
we had the first site in the row so getting aligned to back in wasn’t too hard but we have never had to be so exact before. We got it into the spot, then had to get out the tape measure to determine whether or not we could put the slides out. We had to move the trailer over 3 inches to avoid hitting the RV next door, and with the slides out, they could only see our trailer out their living room window. With our end spot, we at least got some space, and light, between us and the smaller RV’s parked on our other side.
I was very excited and eager to see NYC for the first time, so off we went to the New Jersey PATH train into the city. It was a half mile walk from the RV park and took us directly to the World Trade Center, where we emerged inside The Oculus, an impressive transportation hub and shopping mall. Steps away were the 9/11 memorial fountains; a beautiful way to symbolize such a horrific event. Surrounded by trees with the sound of water, and the quietness of the crowd, it felt appropriate and respectful.
World Trade Center Memorial
It was a cold (50ish), gray, windy day, and it soon became apparent that I was not adequately dressed for
Nanook of the North
the weather. We looked at tourist sweatshirts, cheap ones on the street, and expensive ones in the shops, but then discovered a T J Maxx, my favorite store. Inside we went straight for the winter coats, and we were not the only ones that had decided it was cold outside. After purchasing a winter coat, gloves, hat and scarf, I was much happier and ready to resume our adventure. Bill was very nice about making TJ Maxx one of our very first stops and buying a coat that I really only needed for the moment. He said I looked like Nanook of the North when I was all bundled up but he did get to check off taking me shopping in NYC (and a plastic bag from TJ Maxx was a lot cheaper than a little blue box from Tiffany’s).
The Stock Exchange Bull was nearby, but it was surrounded by a large crowd of people taking selfies or waiting to take a selfie, so it was hardly worth even trying to get a photo. After a not so great lunch, we decided to take the subway to Grand Central Station and check out Midtown. Times Square was not as square as I expected it to be, but rather spread out over a few blocks. There were lots of characters in costumes and some almost naked girls, all trying to grab me for photos, and several busker shows. We stopped to watch one group that had a large crowd, and Bill got pulled into the performance. They started with the typical breakdance style tricks, and built up to jumping over people. They grabbed 8 men from the crowd and had them press tightly against each other, making jokes and embarrassing them. At one point, they had a line of 10 people, but in the end, they jumped 6 bent over men, with Bill as a catcher. Still a good show and they were pretty funny.
Rockefeller Center was nearby, where we watched the ice skaters, surrounded by the flapping flags of many nations, and saw the Today Show studio. St. Patrick’s Cathedral was stunning, definitely the most impressive church I have seen in the U.S. Started in 1858, construction was completed twenty years later. It was restored between 2012-2015, which explains why it is in such pristine condition. It is the largest neo-gothic cathedral in North America, can accommodate 3000 people and gets five million visitors a year. It had it all, towering marble columns, vaulted arching ceiling, beautiful stained glass, golden alters, a dozen side chapel alter sculptures and tableaus, two massive organs, colorful mosaics. From inside the cathedral, the fifteen-ton Titan Atlas bronze at the Rockefeller building, holding the weight of the world on his shoulders, is visible through the front door.
St. Patrick’s Catherdral
The Broadway shows we chose were “The Book of Mormon” and “Wicked”, and both were excellent! The Book was very funny and I knew would be perfect for Bill. It is not for those offended by comedy at the expense of religion. Wicked had wonderful costumes, music, and I enjoyed the story from the wicked witch’s perspective.
We decided to go to the Top of The Rock rather than the Empire State Building or the One World Observatory because we wanted be able to see the Empire and they have an observation deck without glass between us and the view (better for photography). They also offered a “sun and stars” package so we could get photos at night and during the day. We went for our night ride to the top after watching Wicked. Seventy floors up it was freezing cold and very windy, but it was a clear night so we got some good pictures. The next day we returned for the day time views, it was not as cold or windy but a little hazy with smog so the view wasn’t as great.
View from Top of the Rock
The Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island tour was a must see so we chose a clear sunny day for our trip. We caught a water taxi a short walk from the RV park, out to the Railroad Terminal where you can catch the ferry. Tickets to access the crown observation deck were sold out but that was ok since it turns out that the best views are from the ferry anyway. We had a little time to wait so we explored the historic terminal which provided passenger train station for 78 years through 1967, and is now run by the National Park Service. It was an interesting building and museum, and the NJ memorial to 9/11 was also on the grounds. “Empty Sky” is a memorial for the 749 victims of 9/11 from New Jersey. It’s a pair of twin stainless-steel walls, with the etched names of those lost, that direct the visitor’s eye to the empty sky across the harbor where the WTC towers once stood.
Ellis Island
The ferry took us to Ellis Island first, it was at one time known as Gibbet Island, when it was used for hanging pirates and criminals. It became the official point of entry for over twelve million immigrants beginning in 1892. On arrival, they were paraded before a group of medical officers and questionable candidates were forced to submit to physical and mental exams to determine their worthiness to be admitted. Only about 2% were deemed unfit for entry. By 1920 that mostly “open door” policy ended and quotas were set, shifting the immigration process to consulates abroad. Thereafter the island was used primarily as a detention and deportation center for would be enemies of the state during WWI and WWII.
Lovely Lady Liberty
Back on the ferry, we headed for Lady Liberty and the ferry did a nice job of giving opportunities from most directions for photos, before dropping us off. We had pedestal access tickets, and opted to climb the 20 stories rather than wait in the very long line for the elevator. It was again extremely windy and freezing cold up that high, so we quickly took some more pictures and climbed back down. The best views were definitely from the ferry. Both islands had museums, the Ellis Island museum was ok, and we didn’t even go into the S of L museum. Unless you really like reading about the history, I would suggest not getting off the ferry at Ellis.
We intentionally saved Central Park till we got another sunny day and I was excited to see it. It was already lunchtime when we arrived, so we grabbed a hot dog and pretzel from a street vendor before entering the park (one of my musts do’s that definitely didn’t live up to the hype). The Belvedere Castle was sadly under construction, but we enjoyed taking photos around The Lake and Bow Bridge, and it was a nice day so there were lots of boats on the water. Also plentiful were the brightly painted carriages pulled by beautiful horses. My favorite part was the Bethesda Fountain, so iconic with the steps and arched entrance to the Terrace (in fact the week after we left NYC, we watched 2 movies on TV that had scenes shot at the fountain). Inside the art deco Lower Passage was a group of soul musicians taking advantage of the acoustics, and singing “In the Jungle”.
Bethesda Fountain in Central Park
It was much cooler than we expected the entire week of our visit, so as it turned out, I wore the winter coat every day except one. It took longer to get in and out of the city than we expected in spite of our close proximity and each day we only managed to do about half of what we set out to do. It was a LOT of walking, even with a subway pass that allowed us to ride as much as we wanted. I often felt like Bill was marching me around, and I am sure it is hard for him to slow down to a pace that suits my short legs. We never did have a fancy meal (not really a priority for either of us) or even a great meal, but there was a Krispy Kreme on our way home and we stopped whenever the “hot” sign was on. We also failed to make it to B&H Photo (a big must do stop on my list), the only brick and mortar location of this camera store. We went there, but as a Jewish owned company, they were closed at 3:00 on a Friday. I loved finally being in NYC, a place I knew so well from the movies, and we will come back…in the summer. Next time we will do a helicopter tour, and maybe get up early enough to go to one of the Today Show concerts.
Time to start heading south west for home and hopefully warmer weather, but first a few stops for some motorcycle riding in the Smokey mountains and the George Washington National Forest.
You can find all our photos here.
…Bill and Dessa
Awesome!